People picture the pool when they imagine a finished backyard, and then spend the afternoon on the surround. On a mountain lot that surround is a piece of construction in its own right, cut into the ground, held by a wall, drained deliberately, and built to sit level on a property that is not.
Choosing your pool deck surface
The material you walk on is the decision that changes how the whole yard looks, and it is usually the first thing people want to talk about. Four surfaces cover almost every pool we build here.
Poured concrete pool decks
Poured concrete remains the most common choice and the best value per square foot. It takes a broom finish, a hard trowel finish, exposed aggregate or a stamped pattern, and it can be colored through the mix or on the surface. Control joints are cut into it so that it cracks along a line somebody chose. Its one real weakness is that a repair years later rarely matches the original pour.
Paver pool decks
Pavers are individual units laid over a compacted base, in a wide range of colors, sizes and laying patterns. They cost more than poured concrete and they carry an advantage that matters on ground like ours: a section can be lifted and relaid if something settles underneath, instead of being broken out and replaced.
Natural stone pool decks and patios
Bluestone, travertine and locally quarried stone all work well around a pool, and stone is the surface that sits most naturally on mountain property. Stone is the most variable of the common surfaces, since color, thickness and texture change piece to piece, and that variation is usually the reason people choose it.
Porcelain tile pool decks
Large format porcelain is the most consistent surface available and the most demanding to lay, because the base underneath has to be right in a way the other materials will forgive. Tile running from the coping out across the patio, and in some designs down into the pool itself, is the highest end version of a surround.
Rockwork, retaining walls and stone features
Everything standing up around the pool matters as much as the surface underfoot, and on sloped ground there is a great deal of it. Retaining walls can be stone faced, dry stacked, built in block with a stone veneer, or formed in board-formed concrete. Boulder work and exposed rock can be worked into the terracing so the pool looks cut into the hillside rather than dropped onto it. A stone waterfall, a spillover wall from a raised spa, or a grotto style feature all get built at this stage, because the plumbing and the structure behind them have to exist before the stone goes on.
Coping is the piece most people never think to ask about and the one your eye lands on first. It is the edge that frames the water, and it can be cut stone, precast concrete, cantilevered concrete, or large format tile carried over from the patio.
Slip resistance and heat, which matter as much as the material
Slip resistance. Every surface listed above is available in a finish that is safe when wet and in a finish that is not, so what you specify matters more than which material you chose.
Heat. Dark surfaces get hot in full sun, which is a real consideration on a south facing patio with no shade over it.

